Thursday, February 26, 2009

Why am I here?

I am sitting on a patio at Paul's Pasoda (www.paulsposada.com), visiting with Paul and several of his guests. What is unusual about Paul's is that it is in the jungle - about a five minute walk down a path lined by coffee bushes ripe with cherries ( beans ready to be picked) AND the posada has wireless access! One of many many surprises here. The mix of technology and traditional practices is fascinating and very much what I have seen in China.

I was just asked why am I here - for pleasure, for business or for work. And I answered all three! For someone who is a type A+ when it comes to work this adventure is a perfect opportunity to build some balance into my life. I find I am still "working" 6 - 8 hours each day including the teaching and planning of lessons but I am learning to find time to read a good book, visit with the many ( and I do mean many) random people I have met travelling as well as find time to research and think about the writing I want to do.

Now that I am 25% into my time away I find there is a pace to life which is appealing. I am still making lists but am learning to live "manana"; being ok with getting done what is possible each day. Today for example is research; exploring how the human body responds to the consumption of lime ( the women put a lime/water mixture on their tortilla cooking surfaces to prevent the tortillas from sticking), finding out if I need to take malarial meds if I visit Copan and checking out what institutions offer TESL or TEFL instrucion on line.

The opportunity to be in the classroom, even when I barely can make myself understood by the kids, is a thrill. The teachers who have opened their classrooms to us have been most gracious and the kids are having fun with teaching me a few words in Spanish. I am entralled with how excited the kids are to see us ( ok it might just be that we provide a great diversion and some time away from the routine) and it is pleasing to have them seek us out to ask our names and learn a little ab0ut us. We are all so curious about each other.

We have been having a discussion about the poverty we see and live in on a daily basis and how in some ways we are almost anesthetized to it. We've been talking about our reactions and wondering why we do not feel sad or overwhelmed by what we are seeing and experiencing. I am wondering if part of it might be that I have to shut myself off from the impact of it so I can survive and do what I came to do. I also wonder if it has to do with feeling like we are doing something. And it could be part of the process of culture shock I guess. Need to think more about it. If you have thoughts or ideas, please let me know.

Hasta luego

Monday, February 23, 2009

Chacaya Lower School Day 1

Chacaya is located across the bay from Santiago Atitlan. It is an aldea ( village ) of about 11,000 people; 320 of whom attend grade school at Chacaya Lower School. The team I am working with has been at this school for two years now and so our arrival was expected. The kids were excited to see us; I suspect because they knew the day would be different. Of course, their new desks had arrived over the weekend so that was a special treat. Gone were the old benches and tables; worn soft with the oil of many young hands. In are the new desks with a small shelf underneath for their books. Pretty cool stuff.

I was having real trouble understanding how we were going to teach lessons to kids who speak Tsuchay'hel ( spelling may be off), a Mayan dialect as their first language and some speak Spanish. We solved the problem with a couple of different strategies. Firstly we have two team members who have enough Spanish to be able to give the kids some basic information in Spanish - the teachers with kids who only speak the Mayan dialect could then translate. Secondly, we developed lesson plans in Spanish which we shared with the teachers so they were able to take the lead and we were able to provide the teacher's aid support and to do the activities. Lots of fun for all.

The team comes with lessons ( in this case Nutrition/Health and Bible) as well as funds for items needed for the schools; eg a stove for meal preparation, addition of a wall for safety. I would be interested in figuring out if the lessons and funds are equitably valued or if the lessons are a means to an end. The team is is also providing a dental clinic something I know is of value for the children and their parents. Some of the kids were already lining up to show our dental expert the attention they had been paying to their teeth over the last year.

The teachers and principal were most welcoming and were real troopers about our invading their classrooms. I keep wondering how I would feel as a professional teacher if a group of people arrived and took over my classroom. Day one seems to be full of grace and generosity on all parts. I have to say it was heartenening to see the kids get in to washing their hands in a very serious way!

The health issues in the community are profound; dental, lack of water, lack of work and money, diets not balanced and health issues related potable water when there is running water. Poverty is at the core - 29% of Guatemalans live below their poverty line.

Having say that, I was impressed and a bit surprised by the dress and the cleanliness of the kids; especially the older ones. Kids are responsible for their own care at an early age and it seems the older kids are taking the time to manage their personal hygiene. Much more difficult for the little ones who have less ability and training around personal care.

We do it all again tomorrow at Chacaya Upper School. I will need a good night's sleep.

One comment about dealing with culture shock - the advice I so often give students ( based on reading and research) is get involved; volunteer, play sports, make friends. The advice is faultless!

Hasta luego,

Friday, February 20, 2009

Santiago East

I write this entry from Paul's porch. Paul's is a tiny hotel in the woods about 5 minutes from our house. The hotel has wireless internet and so here I sit listening to Paul and his souschef plan their evening meal! Who would have thought?

I have now moved into our rented accommodation in Santiago. This morning we finished washing all the dishes for the second house, washed all the floors as well as did a detailed clearning of the second house. I made spagetti sauce so when the team arrives we can provide them with a nice meal - we even found some mozeralla cheese!

The new challenge, along within the waves of culture shock, is the learning to live in a communal environment. Its been more than 30 years since I have lived in a group house. I was reminded this morning about how challenges there are; many of which can be managed by staying a bit more alert than when living alone or with one person. More on this in the coming weeks.

Living in a warm climate is very pleasing; I was able to do my exercises on the lawn in the sun this morning and the floors all dried in a few minutes with the warm wind coming off the Lake.

Yesterday we had an opportunity to see the location of one of the most terrible mud slides from Hurrican Stan. Many people lost their lives when the slide came through the village of Panabaj and because the river bed was already full of mud, the second slide just filled people's homes. How can one make sense of walking by the mud filled homes knowing there are people entombed in the mud. I am still trying to sort this out.

Saturday is a team meeting to prepare for a full week of nutrition lesses. We will teach three classes each day for about 50 students in each group; three days at one school and two at the other.

I wonder how useful I can be with so little Spanish?

Hasta Luego

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Santiago bound

Two weeks of Spanish school under my belt! My skills are still pretty weak but what is really interesting is that I seem to be better at the speaking than at the listening. I have connected with a woman from Washington state who has been studying Spanish in Guatemala annually for five years and she has encouraged me to really get myself into situations where I can connect with the sound of the language. I really enjoy listening to it so that sounds like great advice to me. Of course I have huge challenges with adding to my vocabulary and to dealing a language that might just have more verb conjugations than words!

One of the most interesting parts of learning and living in a new language is how often I have felt silenced because I have no words to say want I want to say - regardless of whether its in a store, at my homestay or a passing conversation on the street. I am working hard a learning some of the normal sayings so that I can feel a little more connected! Esta bien is the latest meaning thats alright, its ok, its good.

I have just spend that last couple of hours hunting and gathering; seeds for a gardening project, granolo bars for one of our team members and freshly ground coffee for the house. For someone who does not drink coffee the aroma is almost irresitable!

I leave for Santiago on a launcha about 10:30 tomorrow morning. I say ´about´ because very little in Guatemala is en punto ( on the dot ) and that works just fine for me. I leave Pana with strong possibilities I will return for a month of volunteer work after the 5 week project in Santiago. There are a large number of agencies working in the area and Mayan Families appears to be doing some of the work I could help with - supporting a new teacher in a preschool and helping some of there staff develop some conversational English. I might even be able to find an apartment to live in for that month. An interesting option for consideration.

Hastla Luego

Monday, February 16, 2009

Weekend update

Hola

It was a weekend of lots of ups and downs. I have learned the works for culture shock in Spanish and have had a full bout of it this weekend. Lots of tears and retreats to my room to sleep and read. My family in Canada ( thank goodness for the cell phone I bought) has been great encouraging me to get out of that headspace and for the most part I seem to have done that - at least for this round. I have also been encouraged to lighten up a bit and tell you about some of the interesting things I have been doing.

The big adventure last week was traveling by pickup partway up the mountain to San Gorge where I walked with a few other students and teachers along a ridge on a path that was way narrow for my liking. The reward for doing this was some absolutely breathtaking vistas of Lago Atitlan! When we climbed down from the rock and back on to the path I breathed a sigh of relief knowing we were on our way back. Wrong! We then proceded down what I can only call goat path to a cave where Mayan rituals are practiced. There was no rituals going on but lots of candles burning and evidence of fires where we are told chickens had been sacrificed. I have some photos and will try to post then in the coming days. Needless to say I was VERY happy to get back on the WIDE path and on to a bus to come back to Pana.

The other interesting happening was I taught a Study Skills class for a group of Grade 5 - 9 students at Life School ( you can google it). Yes the class was in English and I had a lot of fun talking with them about plagarisim ( likely spelled wrong as the computer always corrects me). That was for their teacher who was concerned about them copying and pasting from the internet. I spent about 45 minutes talking to them about how our memory works, the same seminar I usually give at NIC orientations. I had never shared the information with a group of kids this age - and they ate it up. Lots of fun and a great reminder about how much I love to teach. This opportunity came from a visit I had with the teacher at a local coffee shop!

I also uncovered some interesting voluteer and living opportunities for the month of April and left that meeting with a batch of thank you letters to translate from Spanish to English! Who knew I would be a translator.

Time for dinner - back in a few days.

Best, Colleen

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Open to new learning

One of my goals in this adventure is to understand what happens to independent travellers or volunteers when they are away from their home culture for an extended period of time. Now in the world of international development and international work, three months is not much. But for me it seems like a very long time to be away from the people are care most about. Hence even three months presents its challenges.

One of the books I brought with me is Becoming Human, the 1998 Massey lecture given by Jean Vanier. I knew it was going to be an interesting read but I was amazed when I read this passage

¨Too much security and the refusal to evolve, to embrace change, leads to a kind of death. Too much insecurity, however, too much insecurity can also mean death. To be human is to create sufficient order so that we can move on into insecurity and seeming disorder. In this way we discover the new.¨

For those of you who know me well, this quote seem very relevant as I am one who finds security in plans and structure and I have opened myself up to three months with significantly less structure than I normally have. In the comng entries I will attempt to reflect on how I am learning from this. I also want to begin to think about what the balance of security/insecurity is for me.

Mi idioma estoy poco a poco.

Hasta luego, Colleen

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

One week in

As I begin my second week, I am reflecting on the poverty that I have seen. According to CIDA 29% of Guamaltecans live below the poverty line. Even in the tourist haven of Pana the poverty is in your face if you care to open your eyes and it is profound. People make do with very very little; wood stoves outside with a pila to wash their clothes. Perhaps a room for the bed and a kitchen that most likely would not have a refrigerator or even running water. And everything is so hard to keep clean - not because people do not want clean or because they are not clean but because of the costs of the amenities that allow things to be kept clean.

I had a chance to listen to a Mom of four, with tears in her eyes, as she talked about the education she so desperately wants and can not afford. The costs - only about $70 per month for tuition and then books, uniform and computer access in addition. It seems incredible to me that in our world of plenty in the North this can be real. Its complicated of course as there are kids, and internet access and all the realities of a home and parents in school and then finding work once the programs is completed.

I have also heard lots about how aid for some has become a path to a victim mentality. This only points to how important it is that what aid is provided provides for receipt in a frame of self repect, self reliance and collaboration!

Lots of sobering realities. Hasta luego, Colleen

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Panajachel Day 3

Pana as it is known is full of the hustle and bustle of a small town. Highly dependant on the tourist trade, the town is smiling now that the viento ( windy ) weather has gone and the sun is warming the buildings and the streets.

I moved into homestay a couple of days ago - what a mix of emotions as I was shown how to use the key to open and lock the door, how the shower worked and told - in Spanish - what time meals would be served. I was nervous, excited when I understood that dinner was at seven ( siete ) and worried when I looked at the shower and was not really sure how it would work!

It´s humbling to realize how important language is and how unskilled I feel when I do not understand what is being said. My first lesson was the alphabet. I learned how to say the names of the letters in Spanish, some words which begin with each letter and a few idioms. While my teacher, Obed, has some English skills, he only speaks to me in Spanish. I am confused lots of the time. I am working hard to jump in and ask questions as best I can with my limited vocabulary. My dictionary is VERY important!

I am truly enjoying the opportunities I am given to learn about doing development work as I participate in conversations with a number of different groups providing humanitarian aid. Lots of questions come up about how to work respectfully and effectively with peoples who have had access to a number of different aid services; with people whose language is not English or Spanish which means that translation must happen twice and where the poverty is significant.

And I have a cell phone. My first. Given how much I travel for work and do not use a cell phone it is a treat to be able to call home every few days. The calls to Canada are very inexpensive and offer my family - and me - comfort in knowing how each other is doing.

,Til next time, Colleen

Monday, February 2, 2009

Vancouver bound

My bags are packed. I'm ready to go! Sounds like the first couple of lines of a song.

Yesterday I felt like a yoyo - excited to get going and incredibly sad about saying goodbye to Mark for three months! It is the same feeling I have every time I leave to travel internationally but, three months is such a longer commitment!

This morning it cinched up my napsack, (which seems way too heavy) and prepared to say goodbye to the Comox Valley. It as seems a bit surreal given that we are driving into the City together, will stop a Mudsharks for coffee and talk of everyday things as we drive.