This is one of the dimensions of culture I find most interesting - and challenging.
I had not done alot of thinking about how time might be perceived in Guatemala and, not surprisingly, I should have. I returned to some of Hall and Hall´s writings (Understanding Cultural Differences Boston; Intercultural Press 1990) and that provided a frame for what I was experiencing. They talk about monochromatic and polychromatic ways of living time. In short, those who live the ¨Northern¨ life style tend to live in monochromatic time, where time has a value, where events are segmented off, where time is linear.
Polychromatic time sees many things happening at once, is less tangible and according to Hall and Hall is a point rather than a line. I am actually becoming more comfortable with the analogy of the point extended to be a circle ( this comes from Trompenaar and Turner´s work Riding the Waves of Culture) which allows many events to exist at the same time and even allows for the past, present and future to come together.
And in the Mayan world I have been living in time is much more polychromatic. Some of the typical characteristics of this way of experiencing and living time include the normalacy of interruption (which in itself is a culturally laden term), commitments are not givens but to be achieved if possible, people and relationships come first, changing a plan is the norm and building relationships comes before getting things done.
And for those of you who know me and my penchant for trying to get more done than time will allow, you can imagine the adjustments I needed to make to keep myself sane and more importantly to be able to understand, appreciate and particpate in a different way of being. One of my personal goals in this adventure was to find some ways to slow down a little, to not drive myself and those I work with quite so hard, and here I had the perfect opportunity to do just that.
I still make my lists and sort through my priorities for the day BUT I have learned to be more open to what the day might bring. I have had days with no structure at all ( almost unheard of for me) and enjoyed wonderful adventures because I could be open to what possibilities arose.
Take yesterday for instance. I arrived in Antigua with no plans beyond enjoying the city and hopefully linking up with a friend. The power was out and I had an interior room, so no light. I made my way to a wonderful roof top terrance were I did some thinking, had a nap and read. My friend texted ( is that a word?) me and, get this, I texted her back ( yet another new skill for a first time cell phone owner). We rendevoused at 4 and had a wonderful conversation and meal - and while she wrote some cards to mutual friends - I watched the sun set and then a fireworks display with volcanoes as a backdrop from the Cafe Sky ( a rooftop patio three stories up). Ahhh, lets here it for operating closer to polychronc time!
So how does a society work on polychronic time? Just fine thank you very much. A friend who moved to Pana from South Africa nine years ago tells me that the stress she experiences when she is in the US to visit friends and family just does not exist in Guatemala. The need to be ¨ on schedule¨ does not exist in the same where here. For example if the party is at 3, arriving some time after three and maybe even at 4 or 4;30 is just fine. No worries. ´
And it is very heartwarming to live and work in within a culture where I am more imp0rtant than the time on the clock. The extended recesses at school which allowed us to finish conversations, the random conversations on the street filled with news about what a child had accomplished or how a family member was and the extended lunches that moved from idea to idea. All examples of how people and relationship some first.
This is not to say that time and schedules do not exist in the modern Mayan world. It is just much more flexible. And I like it!
And now as I contemplate returning to the North I am also contemplating how I can integrate just a little of this polychronic time into my life at work and at home.
Adios, Colina
Monday, April 27, 2009
Saturday, April 25, 2009
LIFE School
Buenas
As I prepare to load up my knapsack with what is left of my clothes and the small trinkets for family and friends, I am reflecting on what has been a wonderful last month at the Lake.
In addition to the mindboggling experiences of Semana Santa ( see below ) I have had the privilege of substitute teaching and supporting students at LIFE school located in Panajachel. Founded in 1989 on the vision and principles of Robert Mueller (http://www.centerforlivingethics.org/htmlfiles/Philosophy/philosophy.htm) an undersecretary to three Secretaries General of the UN, the school is one of those oasis of educational excitement that puts a smile on your face and makes you very glad you are a teacher!
LIFE school (www.lifeschoolweb.com) is housed in a ramshackled set of buildings held together physically by chain link fence. But the real glue that makes this a place of learning is the values which are embedded in all they do. There are about 60 kids in grades pre kindergarten to 9th (most teachers are American hence the educational jargon that reflects their terminology) with class sizes of anywhere from 5 ( for the pre kinder) to 12 in the Grade 3/4 split. The curriculum is shared following the principles developed by Robert Mueller and adheres to the Guatemalan elementary and basico ( junior high) curricula.
During the three weeks I volunteered at the school I rekindled some of the excitement I first felt about teaching during my student teaching days at McCorkindale Elementary in Vancouver. Kids learning about learning in an atmosphere which requests and requires respect, curiousity and most of all a sense of community. When you check out the website look at the ethnic mix of the kids; the impact for these kids on how they will see the world in years to come will have impacts we cannot even imagine. The family involvement in the school is palpable as parents participate on hiring committees, volunteer in the classrooms and hang out with the kids at lunch time. And they do it all on a budget of $90,000 a year!
The teachers are paid enough money to live in Pana but I gather not enough to build up much of a nest egg; at least not in cash. The professional development opportunities to be gained from working in this environment are very real and well worth considering for anyone building a career, seeking an opportunity to put some new life into their career, or even as a capstone.
I initially volunteered to help with the Grades 5 - 9 classes who are participating in a Virtual Science Fair (http://www.virtualsciencefair.com/) and very quickly that morphed into substitute teaching in every grade (except 1-2). I learned about using NVU to set up a website, saw kids play and learn together in an environment where skin colour was truly irrelevant, listend to three languages spoken by groups of kids working collaboratively on projects and enjoyed reading to a group of teenagers under a tree on the basketball court!
I left the school yesterday full of smiles at reconnecting with my life as a teacher and vowing to continue to find ways to be in the classroom. It warms my soul.
My heart is heavy as I prepare to say good bye to the Lake
Adios for today, Colina
As I prepare to load up my knapsack with what is left of my clothes and the small trinkets for family and friends, I am reflecting on what has been a wonderful last month at the Lake.
In addition to the mindboggling experiences of Semana Santa ( see below ) I have had the privilege of substitute teaching and supporting students at LIFE school located in Panajachel. Founded in 1989 on the vision and principles of Robert Mueller (http://www.centerforlivingethics.org/htmlfiles/Philosophy/philosophy.htm) an undersecretary to three Secretaries General of the UN, the school is one of those oasis of educational excitement that puts a smile on your face and makes you very glad you are a teacher!
LIFE school (www.lifeschoolweb.com) is housed in a ramshackled set of buildings held together physically by chain link fence. But the real glue that makes this a place of learning is the values which are embedded in all they do. There are about 60 kids in grades pre kindergarten to 9th (most teachers are American hence the educational jargon that reflects their terminology) with class sizes of anywhere from 5 ( for the pre kinder) to 12 in the Grade 3/4 split. The curriculum is shared following the principles developed by Robert Mueller and adheres to the Guatemalan elementary and basico ( junior high) curricula.
During the three weeks I volunteered at the school I rekindled some of the excitement I first felt about teaching during my student teaching days at McCorkindale Elementary in Vancouver. Kids learning about learning in an atmosphere which requests and requires respect, curiousity and most of all a sense of community. When you check out the website look at the ethnic mix of the kids; the impact for these kids on how they will see the world in years to come will have impacts we cannot even imagine. The family involvement in the school is palpable as parents participate on hiring committees, volunteer in the classrooms and hang out with the kids at lunch time. And they do it all on a budget of $90,000 a year!
The teachers are paid enough money to live in Pana but I gather not enough to build up much of a nest egg; at least not in cash. The professional development opportunities to be gained from working in this environment are very real and well worth considering for anyone building a career, seeking an opportunity to put some new life into their career, or even as a capstone.
I initially volunteered to help with the Grades 5 - 9 classes who are participating in a Virtual Science Fair (http://www.virtualsciencefair.com/) and very quickly that morphed into substitute teaching in every grade (except 1-2). I learned about using NVU to set up a website, saw kids play and learn together in an environment where skin colour was truly irrelevant, listend to three languages spoken by groups of kids working collaboratively on projects and enjoyed reading to a group of teenagers under a tree on the basketball court!
I left the school yesterday full of smiles at reconnecting with my life as a teacher and vowing to continue to find ways to be in the classroom. It warms my soul.
My heart is heavy as I prepare to say good bye to the Lake
Adios for today, Colina
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Ex Pats
Ex pats, people leaving who were born and grew up in a different country, are numerous in Guatemala. Our world has definately become a smaller place with global business, international development, people building long term relationships with those from other cultures, the ability of people to work via the internet and with lots of retirees spending parts of their year in warm climates.
Both Panajachel and Santiago have ex pat communities with a richness of experience and opportunity for support and learning. I have met people from all of the US, from Canada, from England and Spain, from Japan and from New Zealand - all of whom have made homes or commitments to long term stays. What fascinated me was how the ex pat community or more rightly communities form and function.
In the six weeks I spend in each of the two communities I ( think I) saw some interesting patterns. Firstly there is an sixth sense you develop pretty quickly about weather someone is an ex pat or a tourist. I am not sure it is 100% accurate but it is something about the eye contact or lack there of, what they are carrying, how they handle themselves that cues you.
Secondly, that with very few exceptions, expats are very very friendly. For some I think it is about an opportunity to share their experience/understanding/learning with another traveller or sojourner. For others it is the chance to talk to someone from home or a place that reminds them of home, with someone whose world view or cultural experience is closer to theirs than the "locals". And for others it is a sincere desire to help. I am not sure if in the first weeks I had a look or some body language, but the openness I experienced with people offering to support me was very heartwarming.
Thirdly, beyond the initial friendliness there is what I have experienced in my own culture. Sometimes the interest, sharing support is authentic and is followed by offers to meet for coffee, come for dinner, attend a party; a sincere interest in building a relationship. And sometimes it goes no further and there is no interest beyond being welcoming. The former is exciting because it opens some interesting doors to some fascinating conversations. The latter is ok but I have to say I had to adjust to the reality that everyone did not want to be a friend.
I have come to learn that the key to building some of those interesting relationships is to be open; to a random conversation in a coffee shop or on a bus, to an offer to meet someone who is a friend of a friend and to offer a smile on the street. I have also learned to let the suspiciousness we have developed in North American society about contact with a stranger slip away and let the contact occur. (Of course it's important to trust your instincts and to check people out if you are making commitments where your safety could be compromised). And by doing this some very interesting things have happened.
For example, I was having a leche con cafe at Crossroad Cafe ( run by Mike and Adele and a must if you are in Pana) and struck up a conversation with a young woman who teaches at LIFE School( more on that later). As we shared our love of teaching, she asked if I would like to come and do a guest class with her grades 5 - 9 science students. I loved the hour I spend with them exploring how our memory works. Then Jen invited me to knitting night; where I met several other women ( most expats and someGuatemaltecans who have married expats). And as knitting night ended I mentioned I was looking for a place to live for a month. Jen, the teacher and our host, said she was looking for a room mate and so I moved in! And when my volunteer work with another NGO did not pan out, I connected with LIFE school and have spend a wonderful three weeks subbing, supporting students in their website development and on Friday will do a lesson for the whole school on Canada! All this from a hello.
The lesson? When a random stranger offers me a smile, trust my gut and if warrented offer back a smile, a hello and enjoy where the discussion takes you!
Adios for today
Colina
Both Panajachel and Santiago have ex pat communities with a richness of experience and opportunity for support and learning. I have met people from all of the US, from Canada, from England and Spain, from Japan and from New Zealand - all of whom have made homes or commitments to long term stays. What fascinated me was how the ex pat community or more rightly communities form and function.
In the six weeks I spend in each of the two communities I ( think I) saw some interesting patterns. Firstly there is an sixth sense you develop pretty quickly about weather someone is an ex pat or a tourist. I am not sure it is 100% accurate but it is something about the eye contact or lack there of, what they are carrying, how they handle themselves that cues you.
Secondly, that with very few exceptions, expats are very very friendly. For some I think it is about an opportunity to share their experience/understanding/learning with another traveller or sojourner. For others it is the chance to talk to someone from home or a place that reminds them of home, with someone whose world view or cultural experience is closer to theirs than the "locals". And for others it is a sincere desire to help. I am not sure if in the first weeks I had a look or some body language, but the openness I experienced with people offering to support me was very heartwarming.
Thirdly, beyond the initial friendliness there is what I have experienced in my own culture. Sometimes the interest, sharing support is authentic and is followed by offers to meet for coffee, come for dinner, attend a party; a sincere interest in building a relationship. And sometimes it goes no further and there is no interest beyond being welcoming. The former is exciting because it opens some interesting doors to some fascinating conversations. The latter is ok but I have to say I had to adjust to the reality that everyone did not want to be a friend.
I have come to learn that the key to building some of those interesting relationships is to be open; to a random conversation in a coffee shop or on a bus, to an offer to meet someone who is a friend of a friend and to offer a smile on the street. I have also learned to let the suspiciousness we have developed in North American society about contact with a stranger slip away and let the contact occur. (Of course it's important to trust your instincts and to check people out if you are making commitments where your safety could be compromised). And by doing this some very interesting things have happened.
For example, I was having a leche con cafe at Crossroad Cafe ( run by Mike and Adele and a must if you are in Pana) and struck up a conversation with a young woman who teaches at LIFE School( more on that later). As we shared our love of teaching, she asked if I would like to come and do a guest class with her grades 5 - 9 science students. I loved the hour I spend with them exploring how our memory works. Then Jen invited me to knitting night; where I met several other women ( most expats and someGuatemaltecans who have married expats). And as knitting night ended I mentioned I was looking for a place to live for a month. Jen, the teacher and our host, said she was looking for a room mate and so I moved in! And when my volunteer work with another NGO did not pan out, I connected with LIFE school and have spend a wonderful three weeks subbing, supporting students in their website development and on Friday will do a lesson for the whole school on Canada! All this from a hello.
The lesson? When a random stranger offers me a smile, trust my gut and if warrented offer back a smile, a hello and enjoy where the discussion takes you!
Adios for today
Colina
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Thinking about coming home
As I woke up this morning I began thinking about my last week in Guatemala - what memories I need to ensure are imprinted, the last minute gifts I need to pick up and about how I can take home with me the sense of calm I have taken on while I have been here.
While I have been away I have read alot (a typical way to deal with the challenges of living in a culture different from your own) and included in my reading has been Jean Vanier's Becoming Human. I finished the book ( actually his Massey lectures given in 1998; Anansi Press if you are trying to track it down) and during the last reading came across this statement
"Freedom comes in discovering that the truth in not a set of fixed certitudes but a mystery we enter into one step at a time. It is a process of going deeper and deeper into an unfathomable reality."
While I am still grabbling with all he says, his understanding of freedom is captivating. I am working on trying to understand some of the cultural differences I have experiences in a way that I can write about them and the concept of a mystery and not fixed certitudes make alot of sense as I think about time and personal relationships with the context of present day Mayan culture. I already know that whatever understandings I am able to develop will be complemented with more questions - a good thing I think!
During the time I have been here my lfe has taken on a much slower pace, balancing certainly a number of commitments but not so frenetic that I am not able to sleep at night because I am consumed with details and deadlines. How to take that home with me? It seems to me that not being so driven would be a kind of freedom - so perhaps I have taken the first steps and must find ways to continue on the path. A useful focus on my thinking in the coming days.
With hopes that all is well for you
Colina
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Semana Santa in Santiago
Buenas tardes
Those of you who have done any travelling or studying of Latin cultures will know that Semana Santa ( Holy Week) is a particularly important time in the year; in fact akin to the importance of Christmas in northern and western cultures. Akin in terms of the religious, family and recreational elements of culture.
When I built my plans for three months in the Atitlan area I ensured I would be able to be in Santiago for this week. And I was rewarded with a wealth of sights, smells, sounds and insights into the modern day Mayan culture which I will treasure as I think about Guatemala.
With my friends Brenda and Jo, we constructed the following summary of the week. Enjoy it and the pictures to the right!
here are the notes we wrote up the other day on Semana Santa. When we visited Suzanne, she was one of the Gringos who went into the circle at the church while they were lighting candles. She is part of a cofrodia, a Teshal or guardian, not sure which cofrodia. She says the singing and music is called the Passion of Christ. She said not all the cofrodia's were getting along, they fight a lot, and that is why some were set up at the other end of the church. this went on until 1 am, and she said no one really knows why they do this anymore. It may be around the apostles the night before Christ died. they also pray for corn and rain. She also mentioned that when Mary was dancing during the night the dagger was facing down, but when they walked her back to the church the dagger was facing up
Monday
People walk from the Pacific coast (about 8o km over a range of coastal mountains) to bring the fruits and flowers into the pueblo (town of Santiago). They arrived about 11 am at the Municipal building. After the presentation, the flowers and fruit were taken to different cofradias (homes where the saints are housed during the year. This opportunity to host one of the saints is a priviledge that is shared around the community on an annual basis). Those responsible for Maximón also preparing him and his clothing for his parade. Maximon is a figure who emerged as Catholism arrived in Guatemala in the 1500s. There stories are diverse and all include an understanding that he is a combination of both Mayan and Christian diety. Some suggest he represents Judas, others that he is some combination of Christ and the Sun God. As well on Monday those saints still in the catholic church were dressed in new shirts (oversized sports shirts) or other garments
Tuesday
The preparations continue.
Wednesday
More fruit and flowers are walked up from the Coast. At 11 am Maximón arrived at the Municipal building ( which is located adjacent to Parque Central). He had 10 – 11 scarves tied around this neck. About 2 pm he was paraded to blue building beside the Catholic church, where they hung him about 3 feet up on a cross.
People also began to clear and clean the roads, set up the huge archways made of two upright an one cross pole and covered with cyprus, cedar and moss. This archway mark the circular route the procession will take as the casket containing the statue of Christ is moved through the pueblo beginning late Friday evening. The decorating of the Catholic church had also begun.
Thursday
The cross members of the archways were lowered and decorated with fruit, small Christmas lights flowers and seed pods from the conrosa. There were a number of ceromonies in the Catholic church including the washing of feet of 13 young men and boys (representing the disciples). They paraded out of the church into the courtyard. Christ’s casket was brought out and put near the back of the church. A band starting playing music, mostly brass instruments and drum that playing late into the night. At about 6 pm, the members of the cofradias arrived for the lighting of the candles. They kept lighting more candles, praying, and sitting in a big circle with smoke and incense. We speculated this might symbolize the the apostles on the night before Jesus died. The confridias were also praying for rain and corn which is an essential element of the Mayan diet. This part of Guatemala has not had rain in at least four months (this is normal) This lighting of candles and pray went on until about 1 am.
Friday
Early in the morning 1 am to 6 am they have a dance in front on the municipal building. They run back and forth with Mary and Santiago. We understand that Santiago (Saint James) is meant to be consoling and distracting Mary. When she leaves the chuch she has a dagger in her chest facing down, but when they walked her back to the church the dagger was facing up. The meaning of this is unknown to use.
At 8 am they brought the statue of Christ church. The parade stopped for prays at the concrete cross in the church plaza, again before they entered the church and again once they got into the church. As soon as Christ entered the church, groups of volunteers begain making the carpets on the streets (albombras). These creations made of dyed sawdust and sometimes flowers, corn, pine needles and flowers take all day and night to make. They laid out a huge ross at the front of the church and then secured the statue of Christ to it.. They cleaned and dressed the statue sprayed him with deoderant. Spraying started in 1930’s and the understanding of why as been lost. A number of people, mostly elderly, walked on their needs up the lenght of the cross and kissed the face, arms and knees of the Christ figure. Money was left in an offering plate.
Between 12 – 3 there is a church service which began with the raising of the cross. After the service attended by 3+ thousand people ( all the benches were removed from the church to allow more to attend), Christ is lowered from cross, the casket is brough forward and he is put in the casket. Again, they spray him lots with deodarant.
The procession then begins. The casket is carried out of the church, some say 31 steps forward, 30 steps back. It took from 4 – 6 pm to move out of the church, down the steps and across the plaza ( it would take about 3 minutes to walk this). Statues of Mary and Santiago follow behind. Maximón also follows along for a short time. The procession then makes its way to the Municipal building and then follows in the circle created by the archways over the alfombras returning to the church about 8 am Saturday morning. At some point during the procession Mary and Santiago leave and go to Santiago’s home. They dance all night with the men and each other, trying to help Mary get over her sadness of her son dying.
Saturday
The chuch returned to normal, the streets were cleaned. Saturday evening there was lots of music to be heard around town until the wee hours of the morning.
Really interested? Consider reading a book recommended by a university prof. we met from North Carolina Rituals of Sacrifice by Vincent Stanzion, University of New Mexico Press Albuguergue 2003 ISBN 0-8263-2917-9 (paperback) or 0-8263-2916-0 (cloth)
For those not of the Catholic religion, the week is a time of family gathering, lots of food, fun and time to relax.
Posted to the right are a few of the hundreds of photos I took during the week. It was a truly amazing experience for someone who is not religious to stand in the church with thousands of others watching the ceremonies.
Adios, Colina
Those of you who have done any travelling or studying of Latin cultures will know that Semana Santa ( Holy Week) is a particularly important time in the year; in fact akin to the importance of Christmas in northern and western cultures. Akin in terms of the religious, family and recreational elements of culture.
When I built my plans for three months in the Atitlan area I ensured I would be able to be in Santiago for this week. And I was rewarded with a wealth of sights, smells, sounds and insights into the modern day Mayan culture which I will treasure as I think about Guatemala.
With my friends Brenda and Jo, we constructed the following summary of the week. Enjoy it and the pictures to the right!
here are the notes we wrote up the other day on Semana Santa. When we visited Suzanne, she was one of the Gringos who went into the circle at the church while they were lighting candles. She is part of a cofrodia, a Teshal or guardian, not sure which cofrodia. She says the singing and music is called the Passion of Christ. She said not all the cofrodia's were getting along, they fight a lot, and that is why some were set up at the other end of the church. this went on until 1 am, and she said no one really knows why they do this anymore. It may be around the apostles the night before Christ died. they also pray for corn and rain. She also mentioned that when Mary was dancing during the night the dagger was facing down, but when they walked her back to the church the dagger was facing up
Monday
People walk from the Pacific coast (about 8o km over a range of coastal mountains) to bring the fruits and flowers into the pueblo (town of Santiago). They arrived about 11 am at the Municipal building. After the presentation, the flowers and fruit were taken to different cofradias (homes where the saints are housed during the year. This opportunity to host one of the saints is a priviledge that is shared around the community on an annual basis). Those responsible for Maximón also preparing him and his clothing for his parade. Maximon is a figure who emerged as Catholism arrived in Guatemala in the 1500s. There stories are diverse and all include an understanding that he is a combination of both Mayan and Christian diety. Some suggest he represents Judas, others that he is some combination of Christ and the Sun God. As well on Monday those saints still in the catholic church were dressed in new shirts (oversized sports shirts) or other garments
Tuesday
The preparations continue.
Wednesday
More fruit and flowers are walked up from the Coast. At 11 am Maximón arrived at the Municipal building ( which is located adjacent to Parque Central). He had 10 – 11 scarves tied around this neck. About 2 pm he was paraded to blue building beside the Catholic church, where they hung him about 3 feet up on a cross.
People also began to clear and clean the roads, set up the huge archways made of two upright an one cross pole and covered with cyprus, cedar and moss. This archway mark the circular route the procession will take as the casket containing the statue of Christ is moved through the pueblo beginning late Friday evening. The decorating of the Catholic church had also begun.
Thursday
The cross members of the archways were lowered and decorated with fruit, small Christmas lights flowers and seed pods from the conrosa. There were a number of ceromonies in the Catholic church including the washing of feet of 13 young men and boys (representing the disciples). They paraded out of the church into the courtyard. Christ’s casket was brought out and put near the back of the church. A band starting playing music, mostly brass instruments and drum that playing late into the night. At about 6 pm, the members of the cofradias arrived for the lighting of the candles. They kept lighting more candles, praying, and sitting in a big circle with smoke and incense. We speculated this might symbolize the the apostles on the night before Jesus died. The confridias were also praying for rain and corn which is an essential element of the Mayan diet. This part of Guatemala has not had rain in at least four months (this is normal) This lighting of candles and pray went on until about 1 am.
Friday
Early in the morning 1 am to 6 am they have a dance in front on the municipal building. They run back and forth with Mary and Santiago. We understand that Santiago (Saint James) is meant to be consoling and distracting Mary. When she leaves the chuch she has a dagger in her chest facing down, but when they walked her back to the church the dagger was facing up. The meaning of this is unknown to use.
At 8 am they brought the statue of Christ church. The parade stopped for prays at the concrete cross in the church plaza, again before they entered the church and again once they got into the church. As soon as Christ entered the church, groups of volunteers begain making the carpets on the streets (albombras). These creations made of dyed sawdust and sometimes flowers, corn, pine needles and flowers take all day and night to make. They laid out a huge ross at the front of the church and then secured the statue of Christ to it.. They cleaned and dressed the statue sprayed him with deoderant. Spraying started in 1930’s and the understanding of why as been lost. A number of people, mostly elderly, walked on their needs up the lenght of the cross and kissed the face, arms and knees of the Christ figure. Money was left in an offering plate.
Between 12 – 3 there is a church service which began with the raising of the cross. After the service attended by 3+ thousand people ( all the benches were removed from the church to allow more to attend), Christ is lowered from cross, the casket is brough forward and he is put in the casket. Again, they spray him lots with deodarant.
The procession then begins. The casket is carried out of the church, some say 31 steps forward, 30 steps back. It took from 4 – 6 pm to move out of the church, down the steps and across the plaza ( it would take about 3 minutes to walk this). Statues of Mary and Santiago follow behind. Maximón also follows along for a short time. The procession then makes its way to the Municipal building and then follows in the circle created by the archways over the alfombras returning to the church about 8 am Saturday morning. At some point during the procession Mary and Santiago leave and go to Santiago’s home. They dance all night with the men and each other, trying to help Mary get over her sadness of her son dying.
Saturday
The chuch returned to normal, the streets were cleaned. Saturday evening there was lots of music to be heard around town until the wee hours of the morning.
Really interested? Consider reading a book recommended by a university prof. we met from North Carolina Rituals of Sacrifice by Vincent Stanzion, University of New Mexico Press Albuguergue 2003 ISBN 0-8263-2917-9 (paperback) or 0-8263-2916-0 (cloth)
For those not of the Catholic religion, the week is a time of family gathering, lots of food, fun and time to relax.
Posted to the right are a few of the hundreds of photos I took during the week. It was a truly amazing experience for someone who is not religious to stand in the church with thousands of others watching the ceremonies.
Adios, Colina
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Teaching Lessons
One of the preplanned activities for my time in Guatemala was the teaching of nutrition lessons. Brenda and I both had an interest in sharing our understanding of how a good diet can help you be healthier but we needed some help in pulling some pieces together so it would have some logic for the kids we were going to be working with. I was really pleased to have a friend of mine with many years of experience in elementary school classrooms in Canada and in Europe spend some time with us and help as connect the dots among good nutrition, a healthy body and a healthy mind hence more success at school.
So harmed with that theme we collected information, developed some key messages, found useful handouts in Spanish and connected with graphic design students at North Island College (www.nic.bc.ca) who designed some posters for us to share with the kids we worked with.
We taught lessons to about 350 kids in grades 1 - 6 in two schools and in an after school program. I thought I had a pretty good handle on working in elementary school environments and I found there was lots to learn too!
* spend two weeks with over 300 kids and you are bound to get sick. I had a cold that lasted the better part
of a month
* teaching in a second language is very difficult, even if the kids are attentive and interested
* kids regardless of culture like lots of activity and that activity helps them learn. Our seed and rice
experiments were big hits.
* kids in this part of Guatemala do not eat raw vegetables. The look on their faces when we gave the raw
carrots was priceless. Their first reaction was to smell it, some refused to even try a bit, some spit it out
and few really liked the taste. (Reminded me of my first introduction to sushi in 1973 in Japan)
* teachers have a variety of reactions to foreigners arriving in their classrooms. Some joined right in
helping translate when the kids did not understand us. Others disappeared and stayed invisible while we
taught and some just watched. I have had some concerns that while our support in general is welcome
our presence was not in the best interest of the school curriculum. Looking forward to reading the
evaluations for more insight
* teach a lesson enough times and it begins to flow. Brenda and I taught a two hour workshop for a group
of kids last Sunday that pulled together the concepts of personal hygiene, exercise and nutrition and it
connected with the kids in ways we had not seen before.
* and lastly the messages are really important in this cultural environment where Coca Cola only arrived
at the Lake about five years ago, where vegetables and fruits are not part of the prefered diet and where
there is little money for extra curricular activity.
Happy Easter. I am off to see the creation of the frombas. More later
Colina
So harmed with that theme we collected information, developed some key messages, found useful handouts in Spanish and connected with graphic design students at North Island College (www.nic.bc.ca) who designed some posters for us to share with the kids we worked with.
We taught lessons to about 350 kids in grades 1 - 6 in two schools and in an after school program. I thought I had a pretty good handle on working in elementary school environments and I found there was lots to learn too!
* spend two weeks with over 300 kids and you are bound to get sick. I had a cold that lasted the better part
of a month
* teaching in a second language is very difficult, even if the kids are attentive and interested
* kids regardless of culture like lots of activity and that activity helps them learn. Our seed and rice
experiments were big hits.
* kids in this part of Guatemala do not eat raw vegetables. The look on their faces when we gave the raw
carrots was priceless. Their first reaction was to smell it, some refused to even try a bit, some spit it out
and few really liked the taste. (Reminded me of my first introduction to sushi in 1973 in Japan)
* teachers have a variety of reactions to foreigners arriving in their classrooms. Some joined right in
helping translate when the kids did not understand us. Others disappeared and stayed invisible while we
taught and some just watched. I have had some concerns that while our support in general is welcome
our presence was not in the best interest of the school curriculum. Looking forward to reading the
evaluations for more insight
* teach a lesson enough times and it begins to flow. Brenda and I taught a two hour workshop for a group
of kids last Sunday that pulled together the concepts of personal hygiene, exercise and nutrition and it
connected with the kids in ways we had not seen before.
* and lastly the messages are really important in this cultural environment where Coca Cola only arrived
at the Lake about five years ago, where vegetables and fruits are not part of the prefered diet and where
there is little money for extra curricular activity.
Happy Easter. I am off to see the creation of the frombas. More later
Colina
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Smells of Guatemala
As I enter the last three weeks of my time here in Guatemala I have been thinking about what will trigger my memories of this place. As I thought about it I was reminded about how powerful our sense of smell can be. When I was in Mexico in 1993 I used an apple scented soap and to this day when I catch a wiff of that sent I am immediately back in that beautiful bathroom with the deep blue tiled tub!
So what smells might remind me of Guatemala - there are many distinctive ones on both the enjoyable and shall we say less enjoyable side of the spectrum.
I am particularly enjoying the smell of fresh fruit, especially sandia (watermelon) and naranga (oranges). There is so much fresh fruit available here for so few quesales it is a delight to gorge on what is available. We bought a watermelon yesterday for the equivalent of $1.60 Cdn and a pina (pineapple) is about the same!
Another smell is corn - it is one of the most important of the traditional foods. I think most common is the ever present tortilla ( more on that later when I write a blog on sounds) but it is also found in the tomales we buy hot in the mercado for 1Q a piece. They are really tasty with a fresh salsa ( especially if you take out the small chuck of meat) and of course buy the one that are spiced!
Oh and then there is diesel fuel. All the intercity buses run on diesel and it is a rare treat to be at the back end of one when it belches smoke. My most vivid memory to date of that rare pleasure is the trip back from Cerro de Ora on a very windy road with lots of diesel fueled trucks passing by. Let me simply say it was a good think I was sitting by an open window! I never travelled without gravol again.
And then there is Semana Santa. The massive Easter celebration has begun and I will write more in the coming days about what I see and hear but there is one smell that is so totally associated with this week. There is a very large seed pod ( large as in about six feet tall and about 9" across ) which is harvested for this week. The pod is slit open and inside is an equally long stock with multiple thin branches coming from it with multiple tiny bulbs. I firsted smelled it in Antigua four years ago and will forever think about processions and Semana Santa when I breath in the fragrance. I learned yesterday the tiny bulbs are wonderful in salads too!
The smell of dust. This is a country which does not have the pristine cleanliness of the cities and towns of the developed world, even in Guatemala City. The standards of cleanliness are different in part because it is so much harder to keep floors and windowsills and clothes clean when many of the roads and walkways are not paved; and when there is always a construction project underway. One of the most common sites as we walk from our posada into town is a mound of soil or rocks or gravel jutting out into the roadway. Most likely it is a signal that there is some building happening and the materials are for concrete. But on occassion it is a dirt slide. There is not been rain for about four months and everything is really dry. This allows sides of hills to slip down onto roadways and highways. And then this dirt blows - into your eyes, on to your clothes and of course into your homes and worksites. Its just a fact of life here and even the ever persnicky me has learned to go with the flow. ( of course it is easier when I can have a hot shower every night).
The sun has set behind Volcano San Pedro and we are going out for dinner ( you can only cook for four on a single burner so many nights in a row).
Adios para esta dia
Colina
So what smells might remind me of Guatemala - there are many distinctive ones on both the enjoyable and shall we say less enjoyable side of the spectrum.
I am particularly enjoying the smell of fresh fruit, especially sandia (watermelon) and naranga (oranges). There is so much fresh fruit available here for so few quesales it is a delight to gorge on what is available. We bought a watermelon yesterday for the equivalent of $1.60 Cdn and a pina (pineapple) is about the same!
Another smell is corn - it is one of the most important of the traditional foods. I think most common is the ever present tortilla ( more on that later when I write a blog on sounds) but it is also found in the tomales we buy hot in the mercado for 1Q a piece. They are really tasty with a fresh salsa ( especially if you take out the small chuck of meat) and of course buy the one that are spiced!
Oh and then there is diesel fuel. All the intercity buses run on diesel and it is a rare treat to be at the back end of one when it belches smoke. My most vivid memory to date of that rare pleasure is the trip back from Cerro de Ora on a very windy road with lots of diesel fueled trucks passing by. Let me simply say it was a good think I was sitting by an open window! I never travelled without gravol again.
And then there is Semana Santa. The massive Easter celebration has begun and I will write more in the coming days about what I see and hear but there is one smell that is so totally associated with this week. There is a very large seed pod ( large as in about six feet tall and about 9" across ) which is harvested for this week. The pod is slit open and inside is an equally long stock with multiple thin branches coming from it with multiple tiny bulbs. I firsted smelled it in Antigua four years ago and will forever think about processions and Semana Santa when I breath in the fragrance. I learned yesterday the tiny bulbs are wonderful in salads too!
The smell of dust. This is a country which does not have the pristine cleanliness of the cities and towns of the developed world, even in Guatemala City. The standards of cleanliness are different in part because it is so much harder to keep floors and windowsills and clothes clean when many of the roads and walkways are not paved; and when there is always a construction project underway. One of the most common sites as we walk from our posada into town is a mound of soil or rocks or gravel jutting out into the roadway. Most likely it is a signal that there is some building happening and the materials are for concrete. But on occassion it is a dirt slide. There is not been rain for about four months and everything is really dry. This allows sides of hills to slip down onto roadways and highways. And then this dirt blows - into your eyes, on to your clothes and of course into your homes and worksites. Its just a fact of life here and even the ever persnicky me has learned to go with the flow. ( of course it is easier when I can have a hot shower every night).
The sun has set behind Volcano San Pedro and we are going out for dinner ( you can only cook for four on a single burner so many nights in a row).
Adios para esta dia
Colina
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Fair Trade
One of the interesting components of this adventure has been an opportunity to begin to develop an on the ground understanding of the concept of Fair Trade. Like many people who pride themselves on being socially conscious, I have been paying attention to labeling in the last couple of years and where there are products available I will buy fair trade.
The people I have been travelling and working with have a small non profit organization which seeks to buy and then sell products that are Fair Trade. In fact they have named their organization Comercio Justo Import Association as testament to their commitment to buy their products in a fair trade fashion. (The profits from their sales provide scholarships for young men and women to continue their education.)
I have had the opportunity to see first hand them work through their ability to track down cooperatives hidden in a maze of back alleys, to ensure their suppliers are providing the workers or members of the cooperative with a fair wage for their work, and to consider the impact of a cooperative building dependency on Comercio Justo and its ability to continue to purchase from them. We have discussed on numerous occasions a definition of fair trade and how CJIA adheres to it.
The many adventures to finding and purchasing from cooperatives led me to do a little research to try to understand some of the issues and principles behind the movement, which incidentally began only about 50 years ago with initiatives from the Mennonite Central Committee. So off I went to Wikipedia (I am forever grateful for the existence of internet cafes in the developing world) to see what I could find out. There I read the definition of fair trade used by the European Fair Trade Association, one of the leading organizations in this movement.
“Fair Trade is a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers – especially in the South. Fair Trade Organizations, backed by consumers, are engaged actively in supporting producers, awareness raising and in campaigning for changes in the rules and practice of conventional international trade. Fair Trade products are produced and traded in accordance with these principles — wherever possible verified by credible, independent assurance systems.”
The site also provides a list of four key fair trade principles developed in 2008 by two other key organizations International Fair Trade Association ( IFTA) and Fairtade Organizations (FLO)
1. Market access for marginalized producers
2. Sustainable and equitable trading relationships
3. Capacity building and empowerment
4. Consumer awareness raising and advocacy.
Check out the Wikipedia site on Fair Trade for lots of good info and important links http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_trade#cite_note-2
Where I am living now I have access to CNN and BBC. Last night I watched summary coverage of the G20 meetings in London. I have some hope that the decisions made to put $1 trillion in to the IMF to support developing countries coupled with a commitment to more transparency will provide some hope for the further growth of the fair trade movement.
And on a much smaller scale I am hoping to ask a friend in Santiago to produce some Mayan embroidery for me, for which I will reimburse her at fair trade prices. She does exquisite work and the embroidery will provide lovely gifts for my family and friends.
Finally, I have read that Music Fest www.islandmusicfest.com is setting a new standard in festivals by requiring its merchants to sell only products acquired in fair trade. Bravo!
Best, Colina
The people I have been travelling and working with have a small non profit organization which seeks to buy and then sell products that are Fair Trade. In fact they have named their organization Comercio Justo Import Association as testament to their commitment to buy their products in a fair trade fashion. (The profits from their sales provide scholarships for young men and women to continue their education.)
I have had the opportunity to see first hand them work through their ability to track down cooperatives hidden in a maze of back alleys, to ensure their suppliers are providing the workers or members of the cooperative with a fair wage for their work, and to consider the impact of a cooperative building dependency on Comercio Justo and its ability to continue to purchase from them. We have discussed on numerous occasions a definition of fair trade and how CJIA adheres to it.
The many adventures to finding and purchasing from cooperatives led me to do a little research to try to understand some of the issues and principles behind the movement, which incidentally began only about 50 years ago with initiatives from the Mennonite Central Committee. So off I went to Wikipedia (I am forever grateful for the existence of internet cafes in the developing world) to see what I could find out. There I read the definition of fair trade used by the European Fair Trade Association, one of the leading organizations in this movement.
“Fair Trade is a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers – especially in the South. Fair Trade Organizations, backed by consumers, are engaged actively in supporting producers, awareness raising and in campaigning for changes in the rules and practice of conventional international trade. Fair Trade products are produced and traded in accordance with these principles — wherever possible verified by credible, independent assurance systems.”
The site also provides a list of four key fair trade principles developed in 2008 by two other key organizations International Fair Trade Association ( IFTA) and Fairtade Organizations (FLO)
1. Market access for marginalized producers
2. Sustainable and equitable trading relationships
3. Capacity building and empowerment
4. Consumer awareness raising and advocacy.
Check out the Wikipedia site on Fair Trade for lots of good info and important links http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_trade#cite_note-2
Where I am living now I have access to CNN and BBC. Last night I watched summary coverage of the G20 meetings in London. I have some hope that the decisions made to put $1 trillion in to the IMF to support developing countries coupled with a commitment to more transparency will provide some hope for the further growth of the fair trade movement.
And on a much smaller scale I am hoping to ask a friend in Santiago to produce some Mayan embroidery for me, for which I will reimburse her at fair trade prices. She does exquisite work and the embroidery will provide lovely gifts for my family and friends.
Finally, I have read that Music Fest www.islandmusicfest.com is setting a new standard in festivals by requiring its merchants to sell only products acquired in fair trade. Bravo!
Best, Colina
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
