Ex pats, people leaving who were born and grew up in a different country, are numerous in Guatemala. Our world has definately become a smaller place with global business, international development, people building long term relationships with those from other cultures, the ability of people to work via the internet and with lots of retirees spending parts of their year in warm climates.
Both Panajachel and Santiago have ex pat communities with a richness of experience and opportunity for support and learning. I have met people from all of the US, from Canada, from England and Spain, from Japan and from New Zealand - all of whom have made homes or commitments to long term stays. What fascinated me was how the ex pat community or more rightly communities form and function.
In the six weeks I spend in each of the two communities I ( think I) saw some interesting patterns. Firstly there is an sixth sense you develop pretty quickly about weather someone is an ex pat or a tourist. I am not sure it is 100% accurate but it is something about the eye contact or lack there of, what they are carrying, how they handle themselves that cues you.
Secondly, that with very few exceptions, expats are very very friendly. For some I think it is about an opportunity to share their experience/understanding/learning with another traveller or sojourner. For others it is the chance to talk to someone from home or a place that reminds them of home, with someone whose world view or cultural experience is closer to theirs than the "locals". And for others it is a sincere desire to help. I am not sure if in the first weeks I had a look or some body language, but the openness I experienced with people offering to support me was very heartwarming.
Thirdly, beyond the initial friendliness there is what I have experienced in my own culture. Sometimes the interest, sharing support is authentic and is followed by offers to meet for coffee, come for dinner, attend a party; a sincere interest in building a relationship. And sometimes it goes no further and there is no interest beyond being welcoming. The former is exciting because it opens some interesting doors to some fascinating conversations. The latter is ok but I have to say I had to adjust to the reality that everyone did not want to be a friend.
I have come to learn that the key to building some of those interesting relationships is to be open; to a random conversation in a coffee shop or on a bus, to an offer to meet someone who is a friend of a friend and to offer a smile on the street. I have also learned to let the suspiciousness we have developed in North American society about contact with a stranger slip away and let the contact occur. (Of course it's important to trust your instincts and to check people out if you are making commitments where your safety could be compromised). And by doing this some very interesting things have happened.
For example, I was having a leche con cafe at Crossroad Cafe ( run by Mike and Adele and a must if you are in Pana) and struck up a conversation with a young woman who teaches at LIFE School( more on that later). As we shared our love of teaching, she asked if I would like to come and do a guest class with her grades 5 - 9 science students. I loved the hour I spend with them exploring how our memory works. Then Jen invited me to knitting night; where I met several other women ( most expats and someGuatemaltecans who have married expats). And as knitting night ended I mentioned I was looking for a place to live for a month. Jen, the teacher and our host, said she was looking for a room mate and so I moved in! And when my volunteer work with another NGO did not pan out, I connected with LIFE school and have spend a wonderful three weeks subbing, supporting students in their website development and on Friday will do a lesson for the whole school on Canada! All this from a hello.
The lesson? When a random stranger offers me a smile, trust my gut and if warrented offer back a smile, a hello and enjoy where the discussion takes you!
Adios for today
Colina
LIFE School
These doors open to the school office and library.
Chalking
On my last day I did a school assembly on Canada. I capped the 45 minute lesson with an activity near and dear to the hearts of most kids in Canada in the spring - drawing with chalk on the sidewalk.
A LIFE School Classroom
Not nearly as high tech as most of the classrooms in Canada and full of us much learning and excitement as any I have been in.
Guatemala
Department of Solala
Like a province or state, the department is the regional political entity. Santiago Atitlan and Panajachel are located on opposite sides of Lago Atitlan
Garden Gate
on the lowlands of Santiago Atitlan
Statue of Christ on the cross
The statue has been cleaned, tied to the cross which is raised at the front of the church.
The casket as it begins the procession.
Sixty men, each with a tag on his shoulder noting his place move the casket along the route. A second team of sixty men take over at the half way point, about 7 to 8 hours after the procession begins.
Statue of Mary
Mary's statue follows the casket on the first part of the procession.
Santiago
Saint James as he follows Mary and the casket of Christ on the church Plaza
Building the Alfombra #1
The pattern elements are chalked on to the cobblestone and the first strips of carpet are laid.
Alfombras #2
The stencils are placed on the sections of coloured sawdust to build layers of contrasting colours.
Alfombra #3
A section of the completed carpet laid in the church plaza.
Catholic Church of Santiago
Friday evening - all is quiet
Photo for Mom
For Kate
A photo she would take
Local Transport
Pickup (notice the bar in the centre for balance) from a tuc tuc
Towards Santiago Atitlan
Strip market gardens roll down to the Lake
Vista Dorado
View from our front steps
Microscopia Amigos
Two grade six students study an onion skin slide with the microscopes we donated to the schools.
Soccer is Serious Play in Guatemala
This is one of a number of games played during a week devoted to basketball and soccer tournaments. Thats the Chacaya Lower School Junior Team in the blue jerseys donated by a league in the Comox Valley.
Dental Lessons
Prior to the arrival of our team dentist many of us were engaged with supporting dental lessons for about 500 kids who live in villages around the Lake. Kids learned the importance of brushing their teeth and had a practical lesson in how to do it.
Water
At Chukamuk Uno the women have to come here to get their water. This settlement built after Hurricane Stan as no water in its pipes because the well water is full of sulfer. The water in this cistern is pumped directly from Lago Atitlan and trucked to the settlement.
Astronomy Lesson
Pedro shows his primary students how the earth (a ball used to play soccer) rotates on its axis.
Coffee Berries
The berries are picked by men who are paid about $7 for a 100 lb sack. The seed is what becomes the coffee bean.
Hauling the Soil for the Garden
A group of boys went with Nicholas and hauled this very rich soil from for spots on the mountain. Then the students used a variety of innovative techniques to get the soil up from the road to the garden plots - about a 50 foot rise.
Working on the Garden
One of the few pictures of me - working with the kids to plant the garden
Stove project - after
This stove, modified to minimize the amount of wood used as well as the amount of smoke generated provides families with a relatively smoke free environment and a place to warm up in the rainy season.
Stove Project - before
Women cook on open fires with minimal ventilation. Kids are often straped to their backs meaning both Mom and baby breathe in the fire smoke
I know what is healthy food
Food groups a la Guatemala
Mother and daughter in tipico ropas
The huipile (embroidered blouse) and corte (wrap around skirt) are typical clothing for women in Guatemala.
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